danalinscott
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Registered: 05/30/06
Posts: 720
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danalinscott
Moderator
Registered: 05/30/06
Posts: 720
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Reply with quote | #2 |
Quote: im going to convert a 10 cylinder isuzu rig and want to try purchasing or fabricating separate components rather than kits due to cost. Plantdirive seems intelligent and accomodating but the vormax and other components are too expensive. My concern is about the 6 valve setup and its ability to prevent air locks. That motor driven valve seems tough and tested but is the 2x3valve setup really better as what ive read in some forums? IMO the configurations using two separate 3 port remote fuel valves are more desirable than the ones using a single six port remote fuel valve. These configurations allow a two step purge or a purge to VO tank which keeps the "starting" fuel (diesel/bio diesel) uncontaminated by VO/PO.
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Dana danalinscott@yahoo.com |
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jodom
Registered: 06/20/06
Posts: 2
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Reply with quote | #3 |
Thanks Dana. I'm using the kerosene mix. But my problem to date is I use a 6-port solenoid operated valve with a two tank system. When I switch tanks what remaining in the return line gets dumped into which ever tank causing both tanks to be mixed. So do I need to install another solenoid valve?...One for the feed lines, and one for the return? What about what Josh Tickell said in his book about connecting the return line back into the feeder line with a t-tube connector? Will this actually work? JO |
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danalinscott
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Registered: 05/30/06
Posts: 720
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Reply with quote | #4 |
Quote: Originally Posted by jodom
Thanks Dana. I'm using the kerosene mix. But my problem to date is I use a 6-port solenoid operated valve with a two tank system. When I switch tanks what remaining in the return line gets dumped into which ever tank causing both tanks to be mixed. So do I need to install another solenoid valve?...One for the feed lines, and one for the return? What about what Josh Tickell said in his book about connecting the return line back into the feeder line with a t-tube connector? Will this actually work? JO Last first. The t-tube connector JT spoke of is a looped return. This works and conserves the heat added to VO as it moves toward the IP since none is dumped back in the VO tank. You should be able to add a three port remote fuel (solenoid) valve so you can choose where the return fuel will be routed (to the VO tank [or loop] OR the diesel tank. If you can post a diagram of your VO configuration now I may be able to post a pic of what I am describing for you. If you can't post an image to the forum email it to me and I will do it for you.
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Dana danalinscott@yahoo.com |
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wvoguy
Registered: 07/08/06
Posts: 8
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Reply with quote | #5 |
Dear Dana: I have a 200k miles Mercedes 300sd 1982 Turbodiesel, 5 cylinder that I want to convert to wvo, two tank system. I've read a lot, and have come up with the following. - The two servo valves are prob. better than one 6 port. -the cheapest kit I found was here: http://www.kenneke.com/veggie.html -any opinion? -buy a plastic or aluminum tank? aluminum lines are cheap and probably better, I'm thinking hoh because I'm a beginner, and seems pretty simple, If I wrap it with an insulator, might warm it up nice too. I asked my mechanic about changing fuel hoses to run B100, but he said, probably not a big deal because most of the fuel line is steel in this car, until it gets to engine compartment. thanks in advance, -John
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82 Mercedes 300 sd turbo, 5 cyl 205k miles
inside every diesel there is a wvo car waiting for release... |
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danalinscott
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Registered: 05/30/06
Posts: 720
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Reply with quote | #6 |
Welcome to the forum. I cannot recommend Kenneke. There is just too little available info on them. I recommend doing a bit more research before buying. Before you buy any kit find a few customers from whoever you plan to buy a kit..and ask how long they have had it an how happy they are with it....to begin. I agree that two 3 port valves are better than one 6 port. Just got started on the configuration "tutorial" today but will be working on it more over the next few days..which may be helpful to you since the first thing you have to do is choose your configuration based on your climate, WVO consistency, and main use of the vehicle. The hope is that by arranging this archive/forum a complete "newbie" can read it from top to bottom ..and ask questions here..and end up with a good understanding of VO conversion. Armed with that understanding they can then proceed to decide which kit is right for them..or gather their own components and install a conversion of their own design. A long way to go for that goal to be reached...but eventually it should be possible. Have you read the "10 steps" post? If not..I highly recommend doing so. Aluminum tanks are expensive..overly so IMO. I use plastic or mild steel tanks. B100 has a more "corrosive" effect on fuel line than VO. I do not think you will need to change nay lines to use WVO...unless they are marginal already. If you plan on using HIH lines I recommend aluminum. For HOH I use regular fuel line. HIH does provide some significant warming of VO...HIH mainly just keeps it liquid and relies on a heat coolant fuel heat exchanger to raise the temp to near coolant temps. I prefer HOH and a FPHE (Flat Plate Heat Exchanger) for ease of installation and efficiency. BTW..please don't be offended if these posts seem to disappear. I move or delete them once I am sure you have had a chance to review them here. I see several sections your single post can be split in to help others that come looking for info later. So just because this post may "disappear" it in fact will probably just be split up and moved. Thanks for posting it... I hope you have more similarly good questions to ask later. If you would like to use this forum to your best advantage I suggest posting a "where do I start" post to the Mercedes conversion section this link leads to. We may be able to "step by step" you through it..and in doing so provide a template for others to follow. Dana Quote: Originally Posted by wvoguy Dear Dana: I have a 200k miles Mercedes 300sd 1982 Turbodiesel, 5 cylinder that I want to convert to wvo, two tank system. I've read a lot, and have come up with the following. - The two servo valves are prob. better than one 6 port. -the cheapest kit I found was here: http://www.kenneke.com/veggie.html -any opinion? -buy a plastic or aluminum tank? aluminum lines are cheap and probably better, I'm thinking hoh because I'm a beginner, and seems pretty simple, If I wrap it with an insulator, might warm it up nice too. I asked my mechanic about changing fuel hoses to run B100, but he said, probably not a big deal because most of the fuel line is steel in this car, until it gets to engine compartment. thanks in advance, -John
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Dana danalinscott@yahoo.com |
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zimmerdale
Registered: 07/18/06
Posts: 5
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Reply with quote | #7 |
I found a source of used oil from a local "Catfish Shack." It's not the cleanest oil, but the Asian restaurants are already taken by other VO operators. I can get 50 gallons per week. (By the way, around here, restaurant owners are used to being paid for their oil. Is that the trend elsewhere as well, or do we just have a tighter market than normal?)
The oil is used to fry breaded catfish, shrimp, chicken, alligator, okra, etc. I don't think they sell any beef. I want a robust conversion that can handle some tallow and PH VO, but your conversion schematics don't spell that out.
What would you recommend, especially for onboard filtering? I plan to use long settling times and your simple prefilter unit. I'm also planning to use your HotRod, HOH, and injection line heaters. I'll use an electric fuel pump and probably an electric coolant pump in the trunk for good circulation. I haven't decided if I need a FPHE in the setup. The biggest concern now is the filter. Would your GoldenGlow be a good candidate for dealing with some tallow?
My car is a 1984 190D.
Thanks,
Jason
El Dorado, Kansas
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1984 Mercedes 190D 2.2 |
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danalinscott
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Registered: 05/30/06
Posts: 720
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Reply with quote | #8 |
I would test the wvo to see if there are a lot of water soluble contaminants in it. If there are you will want to mist wash it before you prefilter and dewater it.
There is info on mistwashing in the VO/PO fuel processing section.
And I just posted an easy way to test to see if you may want to mistwash as a first step in prefiltering wvo. It is HERE.
Currently there is nothing I can suggest for on-board filtering. Although several individuals have claimed to be developing on board processing over the past few years there still appear to be some bugs that need to be worked out before it is a useful technology. It is closer all the time though.
Quote: I haven't decided if I need a FPHE in the setup. The biggest concern now is the filter. Would your GoldenGlow be a good candidate for dealing with some tallow?
Yes..the GoldenGlow does deal with some tallow content well. I also strongly suggest that you use a FPHE. They have proved such a handy component that I doubt there will be many conversion from this point on that do not incorporate one.
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Dana danalinscott@yahoo.com |
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zimmerdale
Registered: 07/18/06
Posts: 5
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Reply with quote | #9 |
I will get some oil and run a few tests on it.
Do you know where I can find a good step by step description of how to mist wash? I understand the basic idea, but it would be helpful to read about/see someone's set up.
I used the wrong word in asking what filter you recommend for tallow. I didn't mean the on-the-go type of on-board filtering. I was just referring to the coolant or electric heated filter that is a normal part of the VO conversion. In many posts of yours that I have read, you refer to a robust conversion that can handle tallow and hydrogenated VO. Do you have a recent schematic drawn up for that type of conversion? What kind of VO filter do you use in those situations?
Is a FPHE sufficient to heat oil containing tallow before it is run through a coolant heated filter? Or does the filter still need to be electically heated like your GoldenGlow?
I realize that some of these questions are addressed on the Kit Calculator page of your website, but there you don't even mention a FPHE, so perhaps other things have changed as well. You also recommend an "aux. coolant heated vegoil tank heater" for Midwest climates. Can you elaborate on this?
I purchased one of your How-To Files already, and will be buying several more, so you'll get at least a form of reimbursement for answering these questions. 
Thanks,
Jason
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1984 Mercedes 190D 2.2 |
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danalinscott
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Registered: 05/30/06
Posts: 720
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Reply with quote | #10 |
Quote: Do you know where I can find a good step by step description of how to mist wash?
No..I don't. It is pretty simple though. I don't have time to search for one right now. So if you find one please provide a link so it can be posted to the mistwashing discussion. If you don't find a tutorial let me know in a week and I will try to put one together. With a bit of luck I should have more time then. It would be a good resource to have available.
Quote: I used the wrong word in asking what filter you recommend for tallow. I didn't mean the on-the-go type of on-board filtering. I was just referring to the coolant or electric heated filter that is a normal part of the VO conversion.
Oh. In THAT case. There are a lot of options. If you plan to run in cold temps and still use high fat/hydrogenated wvo you probably want a filter with an electrically heated head that can heat to at least 130°F. This allows the filter area directly adjacent to the filter head to quickly get hot enough to melt any fats/tallows (that may have coated the filter element) by the time the engine reaches full operating temp. There are several options that cost from around $100 to $500. Once the engine is up to operating temp a coolant jacket can usually keep the element hot enough to prevent coating over with tallow during operation. There is a bit more info HERE bur I can see I need to contact vendors again about supplying links and info. on their products.
Quote: In many posts of yours that I have read, you refer to a robust conversion that can handle tallow and hydrogenated VO. Do you have a recent schematic drawn up for that type of conversion?
Quote: What kind of VO filter do you use in those situations?
Quote: Is a FPHE sufficient to heat oil containing tallow before it is run through a coolant heated filter? Or does the filter still need to be eclectically heated like your GoldenGlow?
Quote: You also recommend an "aux. coolant heated vegoil tank heater" for Midwest climates. Can you elaborate on this?
In very cold temperatures (like 20 below 0°F) a heated fuel pickup designed to not overheat the VO fuel tank in warm weather may not be able to melt VO fuel fast enough to supply the fuel needs of the engine at high speeds for the first 15 minutes. To fix this an electric element can be installed in a tank alongside the fuel pickup to pre-thaw some of the VO in the at the same time that the engine block heaters are pre-warming the block to allow easy starting in cold weather. We need to do this for truck conversions in areas that have below zero temps on occasion.
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Dana danalinscott@yahoo.com |
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danalinscott
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Registered: 05/30/06
Posts: 720
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Reply with quote | #11 |
Quote: Do you know where I can find a good step by step description of how to mist wash? I understand the basic idea, but it would be helpful to read about/see someone's set up.
I have posted some info on mist washing HERE. If you have any questions on mist washing please post them there.
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Dana danalinscott@yahoo.com |
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catuch
Registered: 05/18/07
Posts: 5
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Reply with quote | #12 |
Hi don't know if this is the place to post this, I aked the question below on 5/18/07 but it seems to have gotten lost in the ethernet, so here it is again for what it is worth: Since most discussions of dewatering seem to involve letting the emulsified water precipitate out , can you increase the precipitation by say freezing by putting a 5 gal johnboy in a chest freezer and letting the water freeze and then pouring the still liquid oil off the top? This would seem to be more effective than heating oil that has spent its working life in a fryolater at 350 deg. Anythoughts?
andy
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danalinscott
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Registered: 05/30/06
Posts: 720
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Reply with quote | #13 |
Quote: Originally Posted by catuch
Since most discussions of dewatering seem to involve letting the emulsified water precipitate out , can you increase the precipitation by say freezing by putting a 5 gal johnboy in a chest freezer and letting the water freeze and then pouring the still liquid oil off the top? This would seem to be more effective than heating oil that has spent its working life in a fryolater at 350 deg. Anythoughts?
Only one.
VO will solidify at temperatures above where water will freeze and so even the frozen water will still be suspended in the solid VO. I just don't think it will work.
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Dana danalinscott@yahoo.com |
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gminish
Registered: 12/28/07
Posts: 1
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Reply with quote | #14 |
Is a person able to convert a 1996 GMC 6.5l diesel to a 2003 duramax 6.6l without too much trouble. I understand it should fit just fine without any modifications. Garth
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Garth Minish |
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rvahey
Registered: 02/19/08
Posts: 1
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Reply with quote | #15 |
jwanted to say hello and thanks in advance -
I was just wondering what I can use to route the coolant in a mercedes 240 to a FPHE and a tank heater. What is the best place to come out of the coolant line and what is the best "splitter" for the job - suggested line size?
- Thanks |
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